Kauai's scenic route

By John CorriganLos Angeles TimesNA PALI COAST, Kauai,Hawaii - The second time we capsized, my canteen went east and our kayak headed west.
"Better grab it," said my boat mate, Carlos Holguin, as the Nalgene bottle bobbed in four-foot swells. Our guides had said we would need two quarts of water for the 17-mile paddle along Kauai's dramatic Na Pali Coast. Now half my supply was at sea.
Of course, they also had told us to get back on the two-person kayak immediately if we capsized. After snagging the canteen, I could see why. The wind-driven swells that helped propel us were now taking our ride west without us.
The kayak trip last summer was the highlight of a 10-day trip to Kauai, perhaps Hawaii's most beautiful island. National Geographic Adventure magazine a few years ago rated Na Pali by kayak No. 2 on its list of America's 100 great adventure treks, topped only by rafting the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. It's a spring-through-fall experience, perfect for your list of possibilities if you're planning a Hawaii trip.
Unspoiled by roads and only partly accessible by trail, the Na Pali Coast - with its sheer, jungle-green cliffs soaring above turquoise waters - is best seen by boat or helicopter. Kayaks get you into sea caves and hidden coves that larger vessels can't reach, and there's the satisfaction of seeing the Na Pali Coast the way Hawaiians did centuries ago.
Just be prepared: This isn't a pleasure cruise.
"I had no idea what I was getting into," said Amy Jubelirer, 52, who took the trek with her husband, Rob, also 52, and their 25-year-old son, Matt. "I was so out of my league physically."
Outfitter Micco Godinez, who co-owns Kayak Kauai with his brother Chino, conceded that the trip is "perverse." For the pleasure of taking what the Godinez brothers call the "longest and roughest ocean kayak trip in the world," you'll pay about $200 and paddle to the point of exhaustion. And there's always the threat of being hurled into the sea.
"The common denominator is, you should be comfortable in the water," Micco Godinez said.
At the moment, I wasn't. Partly it was concern for my video and still cameras, tucked in a "dry bag" lashed to our upside-down kayak. As I had packed the cameras the night before, I came across a warning on the bag: "Not for use with optics." The outfitters also advised against putting cameras in dry bags.
I decided to take them anyway, figuring the bag would just get splashed a bit.
Now, with the satchel fully submerged for a second time, Carlos and I swam to the kayak as quickly as we could. Soon we righted the craft, and I clambered aboard. Whoosh! The kayak flipped back over.
"Don't panic," Carlos said.
Panic? Well, perhaps I was overly eager to get back on the kayak. Besides fretting about the cameras, I wasn't too thrilled about being tossed into 40 feet of heaving water, half a mile from shore. Just a couple of miles away, teen surfer Bethany Hamilton had lost an arm to a 14-foot tiger shark in 2003.
Even so, I let Carlos get on first this time, and then hoisted myself up. Success. A few minutes later, another wave flipped us into the sea again.
A week earlier, it had looked so easy. After hiking to remote Lolo Vista Point, Carlos and I had peered down on a flotilla of kayaks in calm, turquoise waters about 3,000 feet below. We had talked about a Na Pali kayak trip back in Los Angeles. Now, hot and sweaty from our walk, the small boats seemed the perfect way to see Kauai's roadless northern coast and the steep, fluted cliffs known as "pali."
We knew the waters off Na Pali Coast could be treacherous. The season for touring it by sea, even by motorboats and sailing vessels, generally runs from April through October. Even in summer, trips can be canceled when the waves get too big.
Kayak Kauai, based in the north-shore town of Hanalei, is one of three companies offering Na Pali kayak trips; the company pioneered the trips 21 years ago, but Micco Godinez says the experience offered by all three is comparable.
We were advised to each bring two quarts of water, a snack and plenty of sunscreen. The outfitters would provide sandwiches and drinks at our lunch stop.
We were surprised that we weren't questioned about our physical condition and kayaking experience. The company does warn about the rigors of the trip on its Web site, but it doesn't try to scare people off, and no kayaking experience is required. That was good for us, because I had spent only two hours kayaking before this, and that was two hours more than Carlos.
Besides Melissa Hosono, we would be guided by Web Godinez, 22, son of co-owner Chino Godinez. Web would be paddling the coast for a sixth day in a row.
We piled into a van for the short ride to the launch point at Haena Beach Park, about a mile before the end of the road. After a mile of kayaking, anyone can bail out and return to Hanalei, we were told; after that, dropping out isn't an option. In an emergency, the kayaks can be beached elsewhere, but it essentially ruins the trip for everyone.
After a quick lesson, Melissa and Web launched each of our kayaks, which had foot-controlled rudders operated by the person sitting in back.
Soon, the capsizing began. This is fairly typical, Melissa said later, because the swells tend to be bigger on this stretch of coast, and kayakers are still figuring out what to do.
The views were stunning - those verdant cliffs rising like skyscrapers from the water - but Carlos and I were preoccupied with the boat.
After our fourth turnover, Melissa pulled up with some advice: Ease up on the rudder. I'd been steering too much, making the kayak less stable in the swells. We never flipped again.
Soon, we went into the first of three caves, called Pamawaa. Paddling into the dark cave was a bit like taking the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland. Later, a second cave called Hoolulu provided more of a challenge. We had to time our entrance and exit to avoid being swamped by surging waves. But we all managed the maneuver.
By noon or so, we reached a high point of the trip - the Open Ceiling Cave. There's no roof above, allowing the sunlight to play on calm, blue waters. Here, most of the crew took a quick swim. I opened my dry bag to check the cameras. Amazingly, both were dry.
Dolphins swam alongside us as we continued west, heading for our lunch stop at Milolii Beach.
It was about 1 p.m. when we finally beached for lunch - sandwiches, chips, fresh pineapple and drinks. By design, most of the trip now was behind us, with just four miles to go.
The final four miles seemed endless, as the wind was no longer at our backs. It was after 4 p.m. when we finally landed at Polihale State Park, the end of the road on Kauai's western side. Everyone took a swim before getting in the van for the three-hour ride back to Hanalei.
The reviews were almost all positive.
"We tried pretty much everything on Kauai - the helicopter trip, hiking - and this was definitely the highlight," Robert Oxley, 34, said.
Amy Jubelirer, although annoyed that the trip was tougher than she expected, had to say she was never prouder than when she made that final landfall.
I felt the same. After our long hikes through the Kauai mountains, Carlos and I had gotten into the habit of having a "restorative brew" to ease our aching muscles. The cold ones never tasted better than after our wild ride on the Na Pali Coast.

Hundreds of Grey Whales Venture to Baja Coast

Tourists are enjoying a breathtaking sight off the coast of Mexico.Hundreds of gray whales have been seen swimming in the waters off Cabo San Lucas.The school traveled more than 7,000 miles from the North Pole to prepare for mating season.Marine biologists said close to 20,000 gray whales may arrive at the reservoir during the next few months.They said the shallow warm waters along the Baja Peninsula offer perfect conditions for reproduction.

See a different side of many-splendored Kauai

By Robert J. Nebel gdptravel@gmail.com Nicknamed the Garden Isle, Kauai is home to some of the island chain of Hawaii’s most unique scenery. Spectacular flora and fauna fill Kauai’s vistas like no other place on Earth. Where else can you see Nene geese or iiwi birds flying among the Kiawe trees and Taro plants? To top off all that, Kauai has more than 50 miles of pure white sand beaches that beckon visitors to enjoy hours of swimming, snorkeling, surfing, sailing or fishing. It’s no wonder this island mecca has received so many accolades over the years. Resort areas showcase island’s diversity Island fathers have divided up Kauai into five distinct resort areas. Its North Shore, East Side, South Shore, West Side and Lihue and Kalapaki offer recreation, sprawling first-class resorts, shopping and, of course, a variety of dining. If you have limited time on the island, then you might want to spend the majority of it on the North Shore. Here, you’ll find mountains, beaches, waterfalls and an amazing amount of vegetation that make this area the perfect spot for everything from humpback whale-watching to a round of golf. To relax, spoil yourself at the Hanalei Day Spa. Located at the Hanalei Colony Resort, therapeutic massages, body scrubs, rejuvenation programs and yoga classes are all offered here. More upscale resorts, rental homes, cottages and even beds and breakfasts can be found throughout the North Shore. The Princeville Resort, which has gone through a recent management change and renovation, is a premier property that features a 252-room hotel, two massive golf courses, tennis club with pro shop, health club/spa and shopping center. A North Shore highlight is the Napali Coast. It is a 17-mile stretch of coastline that features sea caves, valleys and 4,000-foot cliffs. East Side rich in history, culture In the East Side area of Kauai, coconut trees and groves line this region that is rich in history, culture and mysticism. Here, you’ll find the Sleeping Giant, the ridge of Mount Nounou that bears resemblance to a reclining man. Gorgeous views are everywhere on the East Side. From Opaekaa Falls to the Fern Grotto, the East Side of Kauai is a memorable environmental dream. The Wailua River State Park, Opaekaa Falls and the Fern Grotto are just some of the sights that show off the natural wonders of the East Side. After exploring everything off the beaten path, you might want to get back to civilization in Kapaa Town. Eclectic art, jewelry and clothing are on display throughout this cute village. South Side full of activities Composed of the Poipu resort area, Old Koloa Town and Kalaheo, the South Side is home to a range of activities, including kayaking, horseback riding and bodysurfing. While you can keep yourself busy here, must also take time to simply relish the beauty of Poipu’s legendary beaches. Just some of them are Mahaulepu Beach, Shipwreck’s Beach and Lawai Beach. Lodging on the South Side has improved in recent years with the arrival of the Poipu Beach Villas. This 323-unit facility is a mix of new condos and town homes that are near three pools, a recreation complex and small restaurant. Kauai’s West Side story The West Side of Kauai is striking. From the Waimea Canyon to Hanapepe Town, the West Side is a picturesque destination. Nicknamed the “Little Grand Canyon” by Mark Twain, Waimea Canyon is made up of similar views to its “canyon cousin” in Arizona, but with own island characteristics. Hanapepe Town is an historic treasure that boasts classic storefronts and artist studios. Some of the best hiking can be found on the West Side. The Kokee State Park and Kokee Natural History Museum is a good place to locate maps for a rugged individual hike or guided tour. The gateway to Kauai Whether by cruise ship or plane, guests arrive to Kauai into the Lihue and Kalapaki resort area first. Since Lihue is Kauai’s county seat, most of the island festivals are held here. This is also where you can see the island’s history and culture with a trip to the Kauai Museum. “Each side of the island has its own special attractions and events to enjoy together — whether it is watching a free hula show at one of the shopping centers, attending a festival or craft fair, or watching the birds at Kilauea Lighthouse as the waves crash on the rocks,” said Sue Kanoho, executive director of the Kauai Visitors Bureau. “Kauai can be enjoyed by those on a budget.” Kauai’s East Side is called The Royal Coconut Coast for its abundance of coconut trees and groves. Lumahai Beach on Kauai’s North Shore served as the setting for the film “South Pacific.” Prince Kuhio Park on the South Side of Kauai is the birthplace of Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, the “People’s Prince,” who opened the beaches of Waikiki to the public in 1918. No structure can be built more than four stories high, approximately the height of a mature coconut palm tree. Kauai has 43 white sand beaches, more beach per mile of coastline than the other islands. Kauai has the only navigable rivers in Hawaii. Kauai has been the film location site for more than 60 major motion picture and television films, including “Jurassic Park” “Six Days/Seven Nights” and “Dragonfly.”

Whale starltes tour boat with a surprise tap

By Diana Leonedleone@starbulletin.com
A 60-foot whale-watch boat reported a "glancing blow" from a breaching humpback Tuesday off Kauai, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration said yesterday.
The incident did not harm the boat, the 49 people on board or, apparently, the whale, said Mike Killary, a NOAA Office for Law Enforcement special agent.
The situation Tuesday was apparently similar to a whale-ship collision Jan. 2 about 12 miles off Maui, Killary said.
In Tuesday's noontime incident, "the whale-watching vessel was returning from a whale-watching trip, going about 15 knots," Killary said, when "a whale they had not seen breached and hit them with a glancing blow."
The whale breached behind the boat two more times, along with another whale, Killary said. When the crew determined the whale seemed to be OK, the boat returned to port, he said.
Judith Fogarty, NOAA special agent-in-charge for law enforcement, praised both boat captains for following proper procedure and notifying NOAA.

Experiencing Kauai is a princely pursuit

PRINCEVILLE, Kauai Joseph and Tonja Pyle, scientists from Livermore, Calif., gazed in awe down the 4,000-foot drop from the Kalalau Lookout in Kokee State Park to the wild Napali Coast.
advertisement
OAS_AD('BoxAd')

"It's gorgeous," said Tonja, noting that it was their third visit to Kauai in 11 years, but their first visit to the lookout. "We wanted someplace where it was quiet, so we could just get away.""It's amazing. We weren't sure what we were going to see. The colors of the deep shades of green and the ocean," Joseph said. "You just don't see that type of landscape anywhere else."The lure of Kauai, the Garden Isle, is its wildness, its roadless folds of high ridges and deep valleys sprinkled with waterfalls that rush from springs on the flanks of nearly mile-high Waialeale peak. Averaging more than 450 inches of rainfall a year, it is acknowledged as "one of the wettest spots on Earth." But whether you're filming one of the Jurassic Park movies or breaking in your new digital video recorder, when you retire for the evening, Kauai also can wrap you in the most luxurious of digs.Princeville, on Kauai's north shore, is the Scottsdale of Hawaii. It boasts the island's best resort (the Princeville Resort), the finest golf course in all of Hawaii (the Princeville Golf Club) and, in a land where food and fuel are often far apart, Princeville has its own gas station and its own gourmet grocery store.The food market comes in handy if you want to save money (ask for one of the free discount membership cards) and cook at home after splurging to land one of Princeville's oceanfront condominiums.We stayed in a great two-bedroom, two-bath condo at Puu Poa, which looks onto the northern Pacific Ocean from atop a 60-foot cliff, just west of the Princeville Resort and a short but steep trail leading down to the beach.With its giant patio deck, the place was like a Corona commercial, only with copper and etched-glass doors, a sunroom, laundry, snorkeling gear, computer, big- screen TV with Bose home-theater sound, granite countertops in the kitchen and a large fridge to keep the beer icy.For eight nights this was our base from which we launched our mountain hikes, waterfall discoveries and beach expeditions.A testament to the rapid plant growth on moist Kauai and the resilience of the islanders, almost no evidence remains of destruction inflicted in September 1992 by Hurricane Iniki, which caused an estimated $1.7 billion in damage.One exception is a giant wet cave along the Wailua River - Hawaii's only navigable river - called the Fern Grotto. A famous spot for marriage ceremonies, the trees and hanging ferns were swept away by Iniki's 220 mph gusts. Although the plants are growing back, it will be years before the ferns again cover the nearly 100-foot-high cave opening.Kauai's popularity also is recovering. In the past 15 years, Kauai's population has grown to more than 62,000, from nearly 52,000 in 1990. To avoid the crowds, we visited during the fall. We arrived the first day at our condo after dark. We were in time to flip on Monday Night Football, tape-delayed several hours for Hawaii, of course. Otherwise, they'd have to call it "Monday Afternoon Football" here. Interestingly, they showed the Major League Baseball league championships live, so we missed most of those while out enjoying the islands' many treats.When we weren't cooking at the condo, our dining adventures took us down the coast south to Kapaa for sushi, and down the hill north to the many restaurants bordering Hanalei Bay. In Hanalei, very much the hip local cruise, the choices range from the exquisitely prepared fish and plantation décor at Postcards to the '70s rock and roll and tofu takeout at Hanalei Gourmet, where you can get breakfast as early as 8 a.m. and a snack as late at 10 p.m.Beyond Hanalei, it's a short drive across eight one-lane bridges to Haena State Park and Kee Beach. This is one of the greatest places on Earth to see a sunset, where the misty ocean spray mixes with the golden light, setting aglow the high peaks of the Napali Coast, receding one after another to the horizon.Luckily, everything on Kauai is no more than a few hours' drive, especially because gasoline is among the costliest in the nation. We paid as much as $3.70 a gallon for regular, though we found one station that charged as little as $3.16. If golf is your game, look no further than the Princeville Golf Club, widely recognized as Hawaii's best. If you're staying anywhere in Princeville, course officials will gladly arrange to send a free shuttle to pick you up.Don't expect to shoot a personal best here. The stiff ocean winds will blow your ball anywhere but straight. And don't expect a PGA tournament here any time soon. Because of the outrageous landscapes, set among rolling hills bisected by tropical jungle, the greens and tees are so far apart that play would take too long, given the PGA's walk-only competition requirements. We'll take the cart, thank you.Also here, you'll find a 60,000-square-foot club building with restaurant and lounge, pro shop, locker rooms, health club and spa, with treatments at surprisingly reasonable prices.But if we hadn't gone anywhere on Kauai besides Princeville, it would have been worth the trip, just to hear the ocean every morning when we woke.