Get lost in Kauai's lush landscape

The Hawaiian destination has clearly earned the "Garden Island" name
On a recent visit to Allerton Garden near Kauai's sun-drenched south coast, our guide pointed to a blooming orchid growing on a live monkeypod tree.
Everyone photographed the perfect cattleya flower except me. I grew up in Hawaii. Orchids grew wild in our backyard.
But as we ambled past all the eye-popping foliage practically leaping out at us, I couldn't help but unleash my own camera, too. All of the Hawaiian Islands boast spectacular tropical vegetation, but Kauai, the "Garden Island," is the greenest and most lush of all.
Intruders
Ancient Hawaiians saw a whole different landscape from the brilliantly colorful vista seen today. Chances are the showy tropical flora you associate with Hawaii is not native. Anthurium? An alien species. Bird of paradise? Alien. Protea, bromeliad, orchid? All alien.
There are three categories of plants on Hawaii: Native species that arose here before any human contact; Polynesian-introduced species that came by canoe around A.D. 1000 with the first human voyagers to Hawaii; and modern-introduced (alien) species that first arrived in 1778, when Capt. James Cook "discovered" Hawaii.
Learn to recognize the subtler native species by touring some of Kauai's varied gardens. Three of the best are managed by the National Tropical Botanical Garden (808-742-2623; www.ntbg.org), a nonprofit organization working to propagate tropical and endangered plants. In Lawai Valley near Poipu on the south shore, NTBG's gardens include the 80-acre Allerton Garden and the 250-acre McBryde Garden.
Allerton Garden is a stunning landscape masterpiece, showcasing giant Moreton Bay fig trees (seen in "Jurassic Park"), an undulating fountain, golden bamboo groves, a pristine lagoon and valley walls blanketed with purple bougainvillea during summer. In 1870, Queen Emma, the wife of Kamehameha IV, lived in Lawai Valley; her summer cottage still stands today. The garden's namesake is Chicago industrialist Robert Allerton, who in 1938 bought, then sumptuously landscaped, the coastal part of the valley.
You can visit Allerton only by guided tour ($35). While I typically prefer exploring on my own, I appreciate the NTBG guides' knowledge. I've never seen them stumped or annoyed when asked for the zillionth time, "What's that over there?"
Spice trees, orchids
The adjacent McBryde Garden often plays second fiddle but, for $20, you can explore the vast grounds at your own pace. Less manicured or fancy than Allerton Garden, McBryde Garden showcases palms, flowering and spice trees, orchids and rare native species -- plus a pretty stream and waterfall.
Natives thrive here
NTBG's third garden, 17-acre Limahuli Garden (808-826-1053) on the north shore between Hanalei and Ke'e Beach, is a magnificent living "museum" of native species. It's worth the $15 admission simply to witness the rows of taro flourishing in an ancient lava-rock terrace -- an amphitheater of vivid green. Here, you take a self-guided, 3/4-mile loop trail, with Makana Mountain, dubbed "Bali Hai" in the movie "South Pacific," as a striking backdrop.
Of all Kauai's gardens, 17-acre Limahuli offers the best signage, with each species succinctly identified. For once, my eyes did not glaze over from reading informational plaques. You'll get a nifty booklet describing all the plants, too.
Yet more gardens
Also on the north shore is the meticulously groomed, 240-acre Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens (808-828-0525; www.naainakai.org; tours $25-$70), a set of 13 gardens created by Joyce and Ed Doty, who moved to Kauai in 1982 and are now in their 80s.
Na Aina Kai lacks the NTBG gardens' historical context, and thus feels more contrived. But there's no denying the impressive landscape art. Throughout the "Formal Garden," perhaps 70 life-size bronze statues stand (or sit or cartwheel or walk on stilts) in Norman Rockwell-inspired poses. It might sound corny, but the finely crafted statues blend into the foliage and add a thoughtful human element.
One more paradise
The best bargain for seeing both plants and birds is Smith's Tropical Paradise (808-821-6895; www.smithskauai.com) on Kauai's east side. The Smiths, who are part-Native-Hawaiian, are a much-loved institution on Kauai, known for their Wailua River boat rides, luau and 30-acre garden.
The setting can seem a tad hokey, with a Disney-esque Easter Island figure and trams full of sunburned tourists wearing matching aloha attire. But don't underestimate the garden's variety of plants, serene ponds and unpretentious appeal.
For just $6, you can stroll or find a bench and just relax. In late afternoon, I enjoy the solitude. It's just me and the colorful peacocks, chickens and waterfowl, roaming in paradise.
Luci Yamamoto is the author of Lonely Planet's Kauai book and a co-author of "Hawaii" and "Hawaii: The Big Island." "Travels With Lonely Planet" is coordinated by Global Travel Editor Don George; don.george@lonelyplanet.com.
If you go
• WHERE TO STAY: In Kilauea, surround yourself with foliage and fruit orchards at Bird Song Cottage (808-828-6797; www.kauaibirdsongcottage.com; $150). Near the picturesque Wainiha River, try cozy Jungle Cabana (888-886-4969; www.junglecabana.com; $125). A sweet deal, the Garden Room (808-822-5216; www.rosewoodkauai.com; $65) is an in-law studio with a soothing backyard pond.
• WHERE TO EAT: Hearty breakfast eaters head to Kountry Kitchen (808-822-3511; 1485 Kuhio Highway; $4-$8) on the east side. Grab takeout plate lunches (under $10) at The Fish Express (808-245-9918; 3343 Kuhio Highway) in Lihue or sample "Hawaii Regional Cuisine" at Hukilau Lanai (808-822-0600; 4-484 Kuhio Highway; $16-$27), at the Coconut Marketplace in Kapaa.