Alternative paradise
By Pama Mitchell
For travelers used to filling each vacation day with as many activities as possible, a tropical resort in Kauai can stop you in your tracks.
You could choose to explore as much as possible of the island's 533 square miles of sheer coastal cliffs, pristine white-sand beaches, verdant river valleys and mist-shrouded volcanic craters.
Or you could flop down poolside and watch the ocean, listen to the wind in the coconut palm trees and sip a Mai Tai.
Let's explore.
Kauai (pronounced "kuh-WAH-ee") was the first of the Hawaii's eight main islands to be populated. It is 33 miles wide and 25 miles long, with cliffs rising 2,700 feet and more than 40 white sand beaches.
Sometimes called "The Garden Island," it has such a variety of microclimates and terrain that you have to go at it by air, sea and on foot to get the full effect. Since well over half the island is not accessible by road, "doing" Kauai definitely requires alternative means of transportation.
Kauai by air
A helicopter can be a scary thing to find oneself inside. Seven of us, including the pilot, are tightly packed into what seems to be a terribly fragile encasement of metal. We're "risking it all" for a birds'-eye views of rugged Kauai.
The chopper hovers over jagged peaks and wild, arid canyons with few apparent level patches of ground upon which an emergency landing could occur. It might take a novice rider a little while to relax. Just trust in the experience of the pilot.
If you're like most, you'll forget your fears and become mesmerized by the almost overwhelming sensory experience of seeing these remarkable landscapes.
Our Air Kauai flight -- operated by one of several reputable companies on the island -- took off from the Lihue airport on the southeast of Kauai and headed west.
First, we glimpsed the southern beaches where our resort was located, on the section of the island that gets the least rainfall. Within a few minutes, the dramatic red and orange hues of Waimea Canyon came into view. Mark Twain called the 3,000-foot canyon "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific," and we were amazed at its vast scale, which includes more than 1,800 acres of state park land that can be explored on foot.
Since most of Kauai receives at least some rain year-round, the Waimea landscape -- and many other areas visible only from the air -- is enhanced by dozens of long, thin waterfalls, some of which fall hundreds of feet into mist-shrouded pools.
The pilot next headed for the northwestside of the island and the famed Napali Coast, where some of the world's sheerest seaside cliffs frame pristine beaches.
After hovering alongside some of the 3,000-foot cliffs for photo ops, the ride culminated in a visit to Kauai's volcanic crater, Mount Wai Ale Ale, known as the wettest place on Earth, with an average annual rainfall of more than 500 inches. Flying inside the crater brings you to an almost mystical environment, as the copter snakes between the steep, amazingly green crater walls for a peek at hidden waterfalls and misty valleys deep below before lifting out and heading back to base.
By sea
We got another good look at the Napali Coast the next day on a five-hour boat tour out of Port Allen, just west of our Poipu Beach area resort. The catamaran cruised up the island's west coast as schools of dolphins occasionally swam beside us, thrilling the 45 tourists on board with their graceful beauty.
After a couple of excursions under natural bridges in the Napali cliffs, we anchored in a calm, shallow, crystal clear water lagoon for snorkeling and scuba diving among turtle and tropical fish, followed by a hearty lunch with Mai Tais before we motored back to port.
By foot
At least two world-class hiking opportunities await you on Kauai, one of which is in the Waimea Canyon area. In addition to the dramatic scenery throughout Waimea Canyon State Park, nearby Koke'e State Park encompasses more than 4,000 acres of heavily wooded, upland wilderness where trails vary from a quarter-mile to more than 10 miles. You can also drive to Kalalau Lookout and marvel at the view over cliffs and gorges to the ocean 4,000 feet below.
The second great hike is on the island's lush north shore. From the southern beach resorts, drive northeast along Kauai's only highway, which hugs the coastline from about 12 o'clock to 7 o'clock on the roughly circular island. (There are no roads along the northwest coast.) When the road ends, west of Princeville, you'll find the trailhead for one of the world's most challenging and rewarding hiking experiences, the 11-mile Kalalau Trail.
It starts with a quarter-mile of rocky, steep climbing and takes several hours to reach the secluded Hanakapi'ai beach. The entire trek is a three-day experience that requires camping along the way. We had time and energy to take on only a small part of the trail, but it was enough to get our hearts pumping and afford us dizzying looks at the beaches we had left behind.
The resort life
After a day of exploration and exertion, it was always comforting to return to the 602-room Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa, where we decided to spend our final day on Kauai. The open-air lobby looks through a grand archway at the sun-drenched Pacific a couple of hundred yards down a gentle hill. Built on 50 acres overlooking Keoneloa Bay, the four-story low-rise architecture conforms to the section of Kauai's building code that says, "No buildings can be higher than the tallest coconut tree."
The beautiful landscaping surrounds a private, beachfront saltwater lagoon and the most intricate series of pools -- some connected by slides or waterfalls -- that we had ever seen.
Coupled with a choice of five restaurants and five lounges, most with spectacular ocean views, the resort exerts a powerful force on weary travelers who make it out to Hawaii's westernmost island.
The resort's ANARA (A New Age Restorative Approach) spa offers hotel guests not only a well-equipped workout facility but also guided fitness walks and group classes that range from pilates to yoga and strength training. An hour at the spa in the morning can justify spending the rest of the day lounging under a cabana while consuming tropical drinks.
The adjacent Poipu Bay Resort Golf Course with its oceanfront links has hosted the PGA Grand Slam of Golf since 1994 and gives guests another delightful way to spend time. The resort sits on scenic Shipwreck Beach, too rough for most swimmers, but a great place to watch skillful local surfers ride the waves.
The resort also has plenty for kids to do. Parents can enroll children in the half- and full-day activities of Camp Hyatt Kauai or just turn them loose around the many swimming pools, where youngsters particularly enjoy the 150-foot water slide. We chatted with Cassie and Tom Nevins of San Francisco, who brought their 7-year-old son and 5-year-old daughter back for the family's second vacation at the resort. They said they love both the kid-friendly amenities and the range of options for adults.
We also ran into the Nevinses on nearby Poipu Beach at the Beach House restaurant, reputed to have some of the most beautiful sunsets on the island as well as very romantic seaside dining.
It was a knockout setting for dinner, truly a must-see location on the tip of a small peninsula with stunning views of two surfing beaches and tables not more than 30 feet from the water. The reservation book fills up quickly, so book in advance if possible, or settle for watching the sunset over drinks in the Beach House's crowded bar.
On Kauai, even Plan B usually turns out to be fabulous.
For travelers used to filling each vacation day with as many activities as possible, a tropical resort in Kauai can stop you in your tracks.
You could choose to explore as much as possible of the island's 533 square miles of sheer coastal cliffs, pristine white-sand beaches, verdant river valleys and mist-shrouded volcanic craters.
Or you could flop down poolside and watch the ocean, listen to the wind in the coconut palm trees and sip a Mai Tai.
Let's explore.
Kauai (pronounced "kuh-WAH-ee") was the first of the Hawaii's eight main islands to be populated. It is 33 miles wide and 25 miles long, with cliffs rising 2,700 feet and more than 40 white sand beaches.
Sometimes called "The Garden Island," it has such a variety of microclimates and terrain that you have to go at it by air, sea and on foot to get the full effect. Since well over half the island is not accessible by road, "doing" Kauai definitely requires alternative means of transportation.
Kauai by air
A helicopter can be a scary thing to find oneself inside. Seven of us, including the pilot, are tightly packed into what seems to be a terribly fragile encasement of metal. We're "risking it all" for a birds'-eye views of rugged Kauai.
The chopper hovers over jagged peaks and wild, arid canyons with few apparent level patches of ground upon which an emergency landing could occur. It might take a novice rider a little while to relax. Just trust in the experience of the pilot.
If you're like most, you'll forget your fears and become mesmerized by the almost overwhelming sensory experience of seeing these remarkable landscapes.
Our Air Kauai flight -- operated by one of several reputable companies on the island -- took off from the Lihue airport on the southeast of Kauai and headed west.
First, we glimpsed the southern beaches where our resort was located, on the section of the island that gets the least rainfall. Within a few minutes, the dramatic red and orange hues of Waimea Canyon came into view. Mark Twain called the 3,000-foot canyon "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific," and we were amazed at its vast scale, which includes more than 1,800 acres of state park land that can be explored on foot.
Since most of Kauai receives at least some rain year-round, the Waimea landscape -- and many other areas visible only from the air -- is enhanced by dozens of long, thin waterfalls, some of which fall hundreds of feet into mist-shrouded pools.
The pilot next headed for the northwestside of the island and the famed Napali Coast, where some of the world's sheerest seaside cliffs frame pristine beaches.
After hovering alongside some of the 3,000-foot cliffs for photo ops, the ride culminated in a visit to Kauai's volcanic crater, Mount Wai Ale Ale, known as the wettest place on Earth, with an average annual rainfall of more than 500 inches. Flying inside the crater brings you to an almost mystical environment, as the copter snakes between the steep, amazingly green crater walls for a peek at hidden waterfalls and misty valleys deep below before lifting out and heading back to base.
By sea
We got another good look at the Napali Coast the next day on a five-hour boat tour out of Port Allen, just west of our Poipu Beach area resort. The catamaran cruised up the island's west coast as schools of dolphins occasionally swam beside us, thrilling the 45 tourists on board with their graceful beauty.
After a couple of excursions under natural bridges in the Napali cliffs, we anchored in a calm, shallow, crystal clear water lagoon for snorkeling and scuba diving among turtle and tropical fish, followed by a hearty lunch with Mai Tais before we motored back to port.
By foot
At least two world-class hiking opportunities await you on Kauai, one of which is in the Waimea Canyon area. In addition to the dramatic scenery throughout Waimea Canyon State Park, nearby Koke'e State Park encompasses more than 4,000 acres of heavily wooded, upland wilderness where trails vary from a quarter-mile to more than 10 miles. You can also drive to Kalalau Lookout and marvel at the view over cliffs and gorges to the ocean 4,000 feet below.
The second great hike is on the island's lush north shore. From the southern beach resorts, drive northeast along Kauai's only highway, which hugs the coastline from about 12 o'clock to 7 o'clock on the roughly circular island. (There are no roads along the northwest coast.) When the road ends, west of Princeville, you'll find the trailhead for one of the world's most challenging and rewarding hiking experiences, the 11-mile Kalalau Trail.
It starts with a quarter-mile of rocky, steep climbing and takes several hours to reach the secluded Hanakapi'ai beach. The entire trek is a three-day experience that requires camping along the way. We had time and energy to take on only a small part of the trail, but it was enough to get our hearts pumping and afford us dizzying looks at the beaches we had left behind.
The resort life
After a day of exploration and exertion, it was always comforting to return to the 602-room Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa, where we decided to spend our final day on Kauai. The open-air lobby looks through a grand archway at the sun-drenched Pacific a couple of hundred yards down a gentle hill. Built on 50 acres overlooking Keoneloa Bay, the four-story low-rise architecture conforms to the section of Kauai's building code that says, "No buildings can be higher than the tallest coconut tree."
The beautiful landscaping surrounds a private, beachfront saltwater lagoon and the most intricate series of pools -- some connected by slides or waterfalls -- that we had ever seen.
Coupled with a choice of five restaurants and five lounges, most with spectacular ocean views, the resort exerts a powerful force on weary travelers who make it out to Hawaii's westernmost island.
The resort's ANARA (A New Age Restorative Approach) spa offers hotel guests not only a well-equipped workout facility but also guided fitness walks and group classes that range from pilates to yoga and strength training. An hour at the spa in the morning can justify spending the rest of the day lounging under a cabana while consuming tropical drinks.
The adjacent Poipu Bay Resort Golf Course with its oceanfront links has hosted the PGA Grand Slam of Golf since 1994 and gives guests another delightful way to spend time. The resort sits on scenic Shipwreck Beach, too rough for most swimmers, but a great place to watch skillful local surfers ride the waves.
The resort also has plenty for kids to do. Parents can enroll children in the half- and full-day activities of Camp Hyatt Kauai or just turn them loose around the many swimming pools, where youngsters particularly enjoy the 150-foot water slide. We chatted with Cassie and Tom Nevins of San Francisco, who brought their 7-year-old son and 5-year-old daughter back for the family's second vacation at the resort. They said they love both the kid-friendly amenities and the range of options for adults.
We also ran into the Nevinses on nearby Poipu Beach at the Beach House restaurant, reputed to have some of the most beautiful sunsets on the island as well as very romantic seaside dining.
It was a knockout setting for dinner, truly a must-see location on the tip of a small peninsula with stunning views of two surfing beaches and tables not more than 30 feet from the water. The reservation book fills up quickly, so book in advance if possible, or settle for watching the sunset over drinks in the Beach House's crowded bar.
On Kauai, even Plan B usually turns out to be fabulous.
posted by ams at 3:22 PM
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