Kauai News & Information

Lusting for the bounty of Glass Beach

2007-10-03T10:29:00.000-10:00

KAUAI: Fabled stretch of black sand boasts wave-smoothed shards of colored bottles.

By Elizabeth Chang

I'm the kind of person for whom a beach vacation is not complete unless I've scored a piece of sea glass, one of those shards of a broken bottle that have been tumbled by water, sand and time into a state of smoothness that renders them treasure.
But a beach full of the stuff? Somehow, despite the fact that I'd been visiting in-laws in Hawaii for 16 years - spending more time eating, shopping or watching my kids windmill off surfboards than collecting bits of old Vicks jars - the existence of Kauai's appropriately named Glass Beach had escaped me. Until recently, that is.
Even learning from locals that the beach had been picked over, that there were days you could show up and find nothing but pieces so small they
were almost sand, didn't dampen its allure. On my family's next Pacific fling, I resolved, we would take the girls to Kauai. And somewhere between visits to its majestic canyons and crowded pools, we would find time for my sea glass obsession.
Sea glass was once mostly ignored as trash, although, according to Richard LaMotte, author of the collectors' bible "Pure Sea Glass," it at one time may have served as a status symbol in Philadelphia, where residents would place a jar of it in their front windows to illustrate their affluence. Now people collect it, sell it and make things out of it - from fine jewelry to sun catchers, frames and mosaics, even stained- glass windows.
Increasing rarity
Part of its newfound appeal is its increasing scarcity. Glass bottles and containers have given way to plastic, shipwrecks have become more rare and people have stopped dumping trash in the oceans, all of which means there is less raw material for sea glass. Further compounding the problem, says LaMotte, one of the founders of the North American Sea Glass Association, is the fact that much of the sand brought in to replenish beaches buries whatever glass is on the shore. I've certainly never had much luck finding sea glass in Hawaii. The kids and I once collected a cupful on Oahu, but it was mostly pedestrian browns and greens, the color of beer bottles, which makes sense when you consider it: Body surfers, beer and rough waters would conspire to toss back that kind of common stuff. (LaMotte says it can take 10 to 30 years to create sea glass, depending on the "wave action.")
I had higher hopes for Glass Beach, but first we had to find it.
Glass Beach isn't mentioned in most guidebooks, and there are no signs directing drivers to it. The beach turned out to be in the middle of an industrial zone not far from the popular tourist area of Poipu on Kauai's southern end. To get there, you take the Port Allen exit off the highway, then turn down a street past some warehouses, then follow a very rutted dirt road to the water, wondering if you're going to owe money to the rental car company.
You won't know whether you've gone the right way until you walk onto the probably deserted beach and look down. If you're lucky, stretches of the black sand will be paved with glittering glass.
Multicolored jackpot
We hit what we considered a bonanza that day: not just your average white and brown and green, of which there were plenty, but amber and blue and aqua. There were shards of smoothed pottery and a few pieces of well-worn trash (the sea glass comes from a nearby dump), including an earpiece from some eyeglasses and what looked like engine parts. But mostly there was lots and lots of glass - on the beach and stuck between the rocks.
The beach wasn't suitable for anything other than combing; the rocks would make swimming suicidal, and, when we were able to tear our gaze from the sand, the view wasn't impressive: Several gas tanks overlook one side of the beach.
But we spent little of our time looking up, the four of us scouring the beach like a quartet of crones, our backs curved and necks bent, we parents sporting sticks to help navigate the slippery rocks. The whole time we were there, we saw only two other people. We didn't talk, except to shout out discoveries: "Here's a big one!" "Here's a blue one!" "Aqua!" We found so much that, after we took photographs of parts of our collection, we left some pieces for future beachcombers. We didn't want to be greedy.
Stella Burgess, who is the Hawaiian cultural specialist at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa and one of the go-to people for information about Kauai, remembers when "everyone on the western end on Kauai would dump rubbish" on the outcropping next to Glass Beach. They would burn the trash and toss it into the ocean. The ocean then tumbled and threw back the trash, some of it rounded and sparkling.
"Nobody really paid attention to the glass," she says. "It just kept building on top of each other. ... The whole beach was glass."
When she was younger, the glass was at least 6 inches deep. Folks used to go down there with 5-gallon buckets and scoop it up to use in retaining walls and driveways. (Now there is a law that prohibits taking more than 1 gallon of beach sand per day for personal use.) As beach glass has become popular for jewelry and other crafts, artisans have found the beach and have raked it over.
On a visit this past summer, Burgess says, "It wasn't like I remembered it."
While "sea glass" can be made in tumblers and acid baths, enthusiasts prefer the real thing. And Hawaiian sea glass is prized because of its unusual colors and shapes.
"Hawaiian beach glass is unique in that you can find more blues, and that's considered one of the more precious colors, if you can consider beach glass precious," says Sharon Umbaugh, a Sea Glass Association board member. She moved to the Big Island seven years ago from Ohio and sells sea glass on eBay and through her website, tropicalglass.com.
Umbaugh visited Glass Beach about six years ago. "It's a phenomenon, that beach, because it is really all beach glass," she says. "You can actually just scoop up handfuls of glass, and I've not seen it anywhere else." While Glass Beach may be unusual, she says, there are good sea glass sites all over the islands, although "any serious collector won't reveal their sources."
"There's a certain art to knowing where to look," Umbaugh says, but "on a good day for me, the ocean will just throw it at my feet."
Collector Hilda Morales, who lives on the northern side of Kauai, also has a knack for finding sea glass. "You always have to be following the tides and the wind," she says. "If you see a lot of driftwood, a lot of coral, stop."
I understand the draw. My older daughter, Rachel, and I made one more quick trip to Glass Beach later in the week. My younger daughter was sick, and I was thrilled to find a piece for her the size of a quarter and her current favorite color, aqua.
I knew I hadn't found anything too unusual; according to LaMotte's book, the rarest colors are orange, red, turquoise, yellow, black, teal and gray.
But LaMotte was kind enough to look at photographs of my collection and had some encouraging words. The white pieces with tints of lavender, gray or pink could be pre-1930s glass, he wrote.
That made me wish Kauai weren't 5,000 miles away, because by the time I get to Glass Beach again, there may be nothing left but sea and shore.

New system will enhance Kauai's 911 coverage

2007-10-03T10:21:00.001-10:00

A newly installed "Enhanced 911" system will allow Kaua'i Police Department dispatchers to immediately pinpoint and digitally map the location of 911 calls made on most cellphones around the island.
The tracking could only be done previously with calls from land lines linked to residences or businesses.
"Our emergency workers now have the capability of locating most 911 cellphone callers, including stranded hikers and people who are injured and can't describe where they're at," Kaua'i Mayor Bryan Baptiste said in a news release.

Farmers decry Ka Loko closure

2007-10-03T10:08:00.000-10:00

By Diana Leone

Eighteen farms on Kauai's North Shore could cease to produce crops worth $1.3 million a year if they cannot get irrigation water from Ka Loko Reservoir.
That is what the farmers themselves and supporters among Kauai's restaurants, hotels and food stores warned last week in written testimony to the state Board of Land and Natural Resources.
Growers of ginger, lettuce, greens and tropical fruits said in their statements that other potential sources of water would not be adequate or affordable.
But the board, which sets policy for the Department of Land and Natural Resources, decided Friday to end a 22-year agreement that allows Kilauea Irrigation Co. to direct water from Puu Ka Ele Stream into the Ka Loko Reservoir.
Without that uphill supply of water, the reservoir will not be able to supply farms and could put 23 people out of work, state Department of Agriculture Director Sandra Lee Kunimoto said in her testimony to the Land Board.
Ka Loko Reservoir's dam breached on March 14, 2006, sweeping away two houses and a section of the Kuhio Highway downstream and killing seven people.
An investigation by a special attorney general last year spread blame for the disaster among the state DLNR, which is responsible for dam safety inspections; landowner Jimmy Pflueger, who allegedly covered the dam's spillway with dirt; Kilauea Irrigation for not properly maintaining the ditch system; and state and Kauai County officials who did not investigate concerns about the dam's integrity.
Multiple lawsuits regarding the incident are scheduled for trial in 2009.
Although the Land Board did vote to close the irrigation system, the physical work needed to put that into effect will take three to six months, DLNR spokeswoman Deborah Ward said.
The time lag gives the farmers some time to meet with state officials to find an alternate solution.
Farmer David Whatmore warned in his testimony that returning Ka Loko ditch water to streams could prove dangerous for downstream areas.
The Land Board canceled the agreement with Kilauea Irrigation because it has not maintained liability insurance and has been unresponsive to inquiries, Interim DLNR Director Laura Thielen said.
Kilauea Irrigation owner Tom Hitch, who is reputed to be working out of the country, told the DLNR he could not find affordable insurance after the dam breach.
Some of the farmers who use Ka Loko Reservoir water met yesterday to talk about options but are not ready to say anything publicly, said farmer Phil Green.
Thielen and Kunimoto said their departments will meet with farmers to look at possible solutions.

Aloha Airlines Gives Kauai Residents Direct Flights to Southern California

2007-10-03T09:58:00.000-10:00

Aloha Airlines is giving Garden Island residents more choices for flying direct to and from Southern California.
Tickets are already being sold for non-stops and one-stop flights between Kauai and Orange County; and Kauai and San Diego.
"With such attractions as Disneyland and Knott's Berry Farm, the San Diego Zoo and Marine World, LegoLand and professional sports, Orange County and San Diego have been among the most popular destinations for Hawaii visitors for many years," said Thom Nulty, Aloha's Senior Vice President Marketing and Sales. "These new Aloha flights will be a boon for travelers from Kauai and travelers heading to Kauai."
Aloha's service between the Mainland and Kauai will begin on January 7, 2008. Tickets went on sale last week.

Kauai Judge Rules on Superferry

2007-09-26T11:48:00.000-10:00

By Mari-Ela David

The morning after Governor Linda Lingle's meeting with protestors, the fight to block Superferry service to Kauai played out in Kauai's fifth circuit court.
On Friday, Judge Randal Valenciano heard arguments from both sides on why the controversial ship should or should not stop voyages to the Garden Isle while an environmental assessment is in the works.
Judge Valenciano ruled that based on environmental law, it is too late to challenge the Superferry project
"The decision was made on February 23 2005. There was a 120 day window to challenge. There was no challenge on Kauai at least within the 120 day period," Judge Valenciano said.
There's still a chance for Superferry protestors to legally interrupt service to Kauai. The judge ruled that part of the lawsuit is still alive. There will be a hearing on a preliminary injunction.
That's set for next Thursday, the day after the Superferry sets sail to Nawiliwili Harbor.

Portions of Hanapepe Bridge on Kauai face repairs

2007-09-26T11:14:00.000-10:00

Kauai County officials announced that a portion of the Hanapepe Bridge will be closed Monday through Wednesday, 8 a.m. to 11 a.m.
A wooden barrier will be temporarily placed on the eastern end of the bridge during this period as part of the county's training exercises for the Hanapepe Flood Control Project.
Implemented in 1960, the flood control project is designed to prevent the Hanapepe River from flooding the town.
Motorists are advised to allow additional driving time and to seek alternate routes during the bridge closure. Westbound motorists on Hanapepe Road will be redirected to Iona Road and Kaumuali'i Highway. Those heading east will be detoured to Pu'olo Road and Kaumuali'i Highway.

Human visitors welcome, but not the alien species

2007-09-26T11:01:00.000-10:00

I do not object to the Hawaii Superferry providing an alternate means of transportation to the people of Hawaii. If 500 visitors come to Kauai each day, it would be akin to several added airline flights at the peak of the tourist season. More visitors equals more business and more of our residents enjoying a brief glimpse of our cherished rural lifestyle.
However, I am concerned about the Superferry disgorging 300 motor vehicles onto our roads each day. These vehicles will emanate from all over Oahu, a few from Maui and a few from the Big Island. The prospect of this daily infusion of off-island vehicles with the ability to instantly travel from Lihue to Haena to Kalalau to Polihale and to all points in between is frightening.
Kauai is fortunate not to have been victimized by as many invasive species as the rest of the state. We do have miconia and banana poka. There are no mongooses, no brown tree snakes, no super-geckos and only a small colony of coqui frogs.
We do not know how gall wasps and honeybee mites got to Oahu, but they are now on Kauai.
Prior to Hurricane Iniki, buffalo grass and honohono lined our waterways. This streamside flora is no more. Clumps of guinea grass more than 6 feet tall dominate stream and river banks, the shoulders of roads and highways, pastures, fallow fields and front lawns. After Iniki in 1991, it was possible to watch this invasive species spread all over our island until it was the ubiquitous ground cover.
I don't know if guinea grass came from Oahu. I do know that invasive species first arrive in Honolulu's airports and harbors before spreading to the rest of the state, at the rate of more than 20 species annually.
Nevertheless, the state has not enacted inspection procedures to keep harmful plants and animals picked up in tire treads and undercarriages from being transported by Superferry to Kauai. On the one hand, we are supposed to accept the Superferry's sincere representation that its standards are higher than those of the other intrastate carriers. On the other hand, we also are supposed to accept the fact that no requirements are imposed upon other carriers so none should be imposed on the Superferry.
That neither Matson nor Young Bros. nor cruise ships nor airlines had to undergo environmental assessments thereby exempts the Superferry is ingenuous at best and stupid at worst. It's like saying that criminal defendants were not accorded their Fifth Amendment rights against self-incrimination prior to 1966. So what was the big deal with that guy Ernesto Miranda in Phoenix? Why did the U.S. Supreme Court overturn his conviction? After all, the police were not expected to inform an arrestee of his right against self-incrimination, but just to extract a confession by whatever means available.
Fortunately, once the constitutional standard was established in Phoenix, every government agency had to comply. Reasoning by analogy, if an EA/EIS establishes a stricter standard for the Superferry, compliance with the same standard should be required of the other carriers.
Finally, those who elect to reside on Oahu avail themselves of the benefits of an urban environment. Those of us who elect to reside on the neighbor islands forgo the benefits of an urban setting for a rural lifestyle. All we ask is that the residents or our state who support the Superferry recognize and appreciate the things that we neighbor island residents cherish and seek to protect.
Hele mai but please be akamai. Do not unwittingly sow the seeds that might well destroy that which all of us seek to compare, to contrast, to enjoy and to appreciate.

Hawaii Superferry showdown hinders environmental cleanup

2007-09-26T10:57:00.000-10:00

The Coast Guard has canceled its annual trip to collect tons of marine debris in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands because of looming showdown over the new Hawaii Superferry.
The Coast Guard was planning to deploy the cutter Kukui on a monthlong voyage to the Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument in late August when the mission was canceled.
Coast Guard spokesman Lt. John Titchen said the cancellation was because the cutter might have been needed to help provide security for the Superferry, which has remained idle for nearly a month because of protests and legal challenges. The ferry aims to provide car and passenger service from Honolulu to Maui and Kauai.
Environmental groups oppose the Superferry as a threat to the environment. The Superferry was turned around on Kauai by a flotilla of protesters on Aug. 27. The company intended to resume service this week, but on Friday announced it would suspend service to Kauai indefinitely because of public safety concerns.
Trips to Maui have been halted by a court order. Court hearings continue this week on both islands.
The Coast Guard has assisted the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration in the cleanup trips to the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands for years.
Seema Balwani, NOAA lead principal investigator for the marine debris removal program, said Kukui's planned voyage to Maro Reef had been expected to collect up to 10 tons of marine debris, which can trap or choke seals, sea turtles, whales and dolphins.
Hawaiian monk seals are endangered, with an estimated population of 1,200, most living in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.
The Coast Guard's partnership in the cleanup was based on its availability, Balwani said.
"We understand they have homeland security and state support missions," Balwani said.

Volcano quest is online

2007-09-24T12:49:00.000-10:00

By Helen Altonn

Islanders are invited to join an online expedition of the University of Hawaii research vessel Kilo Moana as scientists explore the underwater lava flows of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.
The 28-day cruise began Sept. 9 and will continue through Oct. 7. The public can follow the voyage through daily updates on the UH School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology Web page: www.soest.hawaii.edu/expeditions/Kauai.
In the first five days, the ship mapped a large area previously unknown around Kaula Island, southwest of Niihau, said Michael Garcia, one of the principal investigators, in an e-mail.
"In short, we found tons of volcanoes and lava flows," said the UH geology-geophysics professor. "It is amazing."
The Kilo Moana is equipped with Jason 2, a sophisticated robotics vehicle operated by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Tethered to the ship by fiber-optic cable, the remotely operated vehicle can work at depths of more than 7,000 feet.
Garcia was one of the chief investigators for an expedition in 2002 using Jason 2 to study Mauna Loa's undersea southwest rift zone. Nine new volcanoes were discovered on the flanks of Mauna Loa.
The Kilo Moana is doing a huge public school outreach program on Kauai during the current cruise, Garcia said. Kauai teacher Linda Sciaroni also is writing dispatches from the ship for a "teacher at sea log" on the Web page.
She presented two maps of lava fields northwest of Niihau and Kaula in her Wednesday report. "Notice the numerous pancake-shaped volcanoes scattered about," she said.
"The wide areas of black mean that the eruptions here are much younger than Niihau, Kaula or Kauai ... Nobody ever would have dreamed there were so many volcanoes like this around these relatively small islands."
An international team led by UH researchers is using multibeam sonar and acoustic imagery to map the sea floor, as well as Jason 2 to sample lava to determine their ages, petrology and geochemistry.
"It is expected the expedition will reveal new secrets about the rejuvenation stage of volcanism that formed such features as Diamond Head," said a UH announcement of the expedition.
Daily updates are being posted online about life on the vessel, its high-tech equipment, the region's geologic background and discoveries.
"Hawaiian volcanism is understood on land but what, when and how lava erupted in the ocean depths surrounding the islands is a mystery," the researchers wrote in a "science overview" for the expedition.
A prime target is a topographic bulge extending south from Kauai, they said. It's broader than Kauai and "covered with many tens of volcanic mounds and pinnacles" roughly the size of Diamond Head crater, they described.
"There are hints that these features continue to punctuate the sea floor south of Niihau and around the west and north side of Kaula.
"Scientists know these volcanic features are no longer active but they do not know whether they formed during the main (shield) phase of volcanism on the islands or whether they formed more recently, in a manner similar to Diamond Head."
Scientists said they will analyze the rocks "to determine when they erupted, how hot they were, what they are composed of and with what stage of Hawaiian volcanism they best fit."

More than meets the eye at National Tropical Botanical Garden

2007-09-24T12:46:00.000-10:00

By Tara Godvin

THE NATIONAL Tropical Botanical Garden offers plenty of beautiful flowers, with three sites on Kauai, Hawaii's "Garden Isle." Here visitors can get off the beach and learn more about the local flora.
But one aspect of what takes place at the National Tropical Botanical Garden goes well beyond aesthetics. Resident scientists face the challenge of snatching the Pacific islands' quickly disappearing plants from the brink of extinction.
"Most of our visitors to Hawaii look at this beautiful, lush landscape and they just think, 'It's paradise'," said Charles R. "Chipper" Wichman, garden director, gesturing to the verdant valley stretching out below his office window on Kauai. "They have no idea that what they are viewing is a war zone between our native plants that are trying to hold on to a space and all these invasive plants and animals that are trying to take it away from them."
The Hawaiian islands have a wealth of conservation needs and are known among botanists as the nation's "extinction capital." About 180 plant species in Hawaii have 50 or fewer individuals living in the wild, Wichman said.
"We are facing an extinction crisis here in the Hawaiian Islands. And the plants here are part of our national heritage, part of the United States' national heritage," Wichman said.
Conservation at the garden involves locating and identifying endangered plants, raising them in green houses and then reintroducing them in the gardens and elsewhere to reconstruct native plant environments and bolster the health of the islands' many other troubled species.
At the National Tropical Botanical Garden's headquarters on Kauai's South Shore, the public can visit display gardens for free, or buy tickets and hop a tram for tours of the McBryde or Allerton gardens in a valley a couple miles away.
The McBryde Garden nurtures plants from throughout the tropics, some of which are extinct in the wild. Next door, the formal Allerton Garden was begun by Hawaii's Queen Emma in the late 1800s and transformed into its current design by a scion of a wealthy Chicago family who purchased the land in the late 1930s.
The third site, the Limahuli Garden on the lush North Shore, features many native species and stunning 700-year-old terraces for growing taro, known as lo'i kalo.
In addition to these three gardens on Kauai, the National Tropical Garden has two other botanical gardens and three preserves, all but one of which — The Kampong in southern Florida — are located in Hawaii.
Though created by an act of Congress in 1964, the garden does not get annual government funds and instead depends on private donations and grants from public and private foundations.
Among the garden's conservation and research triumphs is the alula, on display at both the McBryde and Limahuli gardens on Kauai. Similar in appearance to a cabbage on a stick, the cute, stocky little plant has been grown by the hundreds in the garden. But only one known alula remains in the wild, tucked away on a cliff on Kauai.
Not all the garden's tales are so simple or triumphant as the alula's. The world's only known wild kanaloa, a humble-looking member of the pea family first scientifically described in 1994, lives on a sea stack off Kahoolawe, an uninhabited Hawaiian island still sprinkled with unexploded bombs after being used for target practice by the military for five decades.
In all, the garden has had a hand in the discovery of 30 new species endemic to Hawaii and the rediscovery of about another 30 thought to be extinct.

Hawaii Superferry suspends Kauai service

2007-09-24T12:35:00.000-10:00

Hawaii Superferry announced Friday that it is suspending service to and from Kauai until an unspecified future date.
Service to Kauai was scheduled to resume this week, with the Coast Guard setting strict new safety rules to manage in-water protests against the ferry.
However a crowd of more than 1,100 greeted Hawaii Governor Lilian Lingle at a community meeting she held in Kauai last Thursday to discuss the resumption of the service.
At that meeting, many ferry opponents made it clear that they were ready to breach the new security rules.
Hawaii Superferry said it had made the decision to suspend service "in consideration for the safety of the community, our passengers and our dedicated employees."

Superferry opponents boo Hawaii governor - News Wires - CNBC.com

2007-09-21T12:05:00.000-10:00

Opponents of the first passenger-vehicle ferry between major Hawaiian Islands greeted Gov. Linda Lingle with boos and interruptions as she tried to sell the project to residents of Kauai.
Despite the angry reception Thursday, the Republican governor said the Hawaii Superferry would resume service between Oahu and Kauai next Wednesday under Coast Guard protection.
Residents, many of whom oppose the ferry on environmental grounds, packed the 1,000-seat Kauai War Memorial convention hall. They shouted down Lingle, the state transportation director and a Coast Guard official as they tried to discuss the resumption of the service.
"We are not going to allow this to happen," ferry opponent Robert Pa said to a chorus of cheers. "The first whale that's killed, I'm going to drag it to (Kauai Mayor) Bryan Baptiste's office." The officials warned the crowd about state and federal penalties for disrupting the ferry, which offers the only alternative to air travel.
"I do believe it's a great option and I support it," said Lingle, who kept her composure despite being called a liar and a lawbreaker.
Among the relatively few supporters at the meeting were about 30 Superferry employees, 10 percent of its island work force.
Ferry service was stopped three weeks ago by waterborne protesters in Kauai's Nawiliwili Harbor and by a court order on Maui. The ferry is built to carry more than 850 passengers and 250 vehicles daily.
Opponents fear increased traffic problems, disruption of water recreation, the spread of invasive species and increased drug trafficking.
Just days before service was to start, the state Supreme Court ruled that an environmental assessment should have been conducted. A request is pending in lower courts to halt the ferry while the assessment is done, which could take months.
Asked why an extensive environmental impact study was not conducted, Lingle responded that Superferry has a legal right to use the harbors and that a bill to require an environmental statement died in the state House of Representatives.
"We're not here to make a decision on when the Superferry comes in because we've already made that decision," Lingle said.
Several people criticized the Coast Guard's plan to safeguard the ship and the use of the military to police the protesters.

Kauai Condos in Poipu

2007-09-20T08:37:00.000-10:00

Kuhio Shores: Located on Kauai's sunny South shore, these Kauai condos are part of an oceanfront four story building with two elevators. Built just a few feet from the blue Pacific Ocean and featuring both one and two-bedroom suites; all units are absolute oceanfront with close proximity to Poipu Beach, golfing, shopping and island sight seeing.

A pleasant sail ended in fear as protesters unleashed fury on passengers

2007-09-17T12:27:00.000-10:00

By Dianne Pana

My husband and I looked forward to our trip on the Hawaii Superferry's inaugural voyage to Kauai on Sunday, Aug. 26. Once on board, we experienced smooth sailing, spectacular views, a large school of spinner dolphins, a rain shower complete with a rainbow, and a boat full of committed and efficient employees. Perfect. That is, until we reached Nawiliwili Harbor and a pier full of shouting, angry protesters.
We could not hear them but we sure could see their hand gestures (quite graphic) and read their words of hatred, which were directed not only at the Superferry but also at its riders. We were subjected to about two hours of forward and reverse movements trying to enter the harbor until finally the Superferry was able to maneuver around the surfers who were blocking access. Once ashore, we were told to wait on the dock. In the distance we could hear and see the protesters.
After another hour of waiting on the dock behind a gate, I began to wonder who was protecting our right to freedom of movement without threats or intimidation and realized there was no one there for us. The Superferry people did as much as they could, including sending one of their employees out to the protest line (his car was shown on TV being attacked). There were elderly people who needed to get off the dock, as it was quite humid, and babies that needed to be tended to. I overheard one man offering another man formula for his baby, as he had extra. Everyone was out of their cars and waiting for word of when it would be safe to leave when all of a sudden we began to hear yelling behind us as some of the protesters had circled around to the back, where many of the riders were standing.
They began to swear at us, shouting, "Go home, we don't want you here," "Was the five dollars worth it?" and, once the ferry left, "Where's your boat now?"
We remained silent for the most part, as we felt like sitting ducks, not being able to leave in any direction. The taunting and insults went on for at least another hour. Eventually we were led out of another gate but only after being instructed by the Kauai officers to turn off our headlights and not to engage any protesters who might be out there. This darkened street was lined with police officers (I felt like I was on a mission in some Third World country; the only thing I was armed with, however, was my trusty camcorder).
Eventually the protesters learned that we were sneaking out the side gate, and they began to congregate on the streets, yelling but not getting in the way of the cars (and it's a good thing, too, because I think by that point there were many who felt like running them over). The protesters were supposedly taking down our license numbers. I don't know why, except maybe to intimidate us further.
We headed for the area where my husband works five days a week, and passed the "Aloha, Welcome to Kauai" sign.
My husband and I also were at the pier for the second arrival of the Superferry the next night, which seemed even worse than the night before. Lined up and ready to board the ferry again, the passengers were now just on the other side of the protesters, separated by only a thin fence. The protesters once again began showing us their signs of hatred. One ferry rider, who had an infant in his car, approached the gate and asked one of the protesters why they were not letting us leave when it was clear they didn't want us there. He was told to shut up and step away from the fence by a Kauai police officer. The protester was allowed to continue ranting.
In the meantime, we were treated to the haunting sound of the slow, rhythmic pounding of some sort of drum. The rhythm of the drum became louder and faster whenever the Superferry was pushed back by the protesters in the water. I had the feeling we were about to be roasted, with all the swearing and insults spewing from the angry mob on the pier. Not feeling the least bit safe this close to the protesters (despite a large number of police officers milling about, some with dogs), my husband and I left, vowing to try again the next day. By then all we wanted to do was leave Kauai with our cars, and we were denied once again.
I don't have a beef with people exercising their right to a peaceful protest for whatever they believe in. I do, however, have a problem when my rights become nonexistent as a direct result of those who choose to break the law. Should the protesters have been allowed to hold hostage the ferry riders, who included the elderly and babies? Should they have been allowed to make us wait for hours at sea or locked up in a fenced area? Should the protesters have been allowed to pound on cars and let the air out of their tires? NO, NO and NO, period. If this were to happen anywhere else, I believe action would have been quick and decisive.
I was once a proud supporter of Greenpeace and I respect anyone's right to protest, but not when my liberties and freedoms are trampled upon.
While we were still stuck on Kauai, I heard Kauai Rep. Hermina Morita say on TV that she would be looking into the government going after "our peaceful protesters." I don't know what pier she was standing on but it certainly could not have been on the same pier where the Superferry site is located. How Morita could say this was a peaceful demonstration, even after the protesters had thrown rocks at Superferry riders, is beyond me.
On that Monday night, after deciding to leave the Superferry site, we located ourselves further down the pier, well away from the protesters, where there appeared to be at least another 100 or so onlookers, mostly residents of Kauai. While standing there we overheard two local boys in their mid-twenties talking about the surfers and how it was they who were "stupid." One of them said, "I know how to get the surfers and everyone else out of the water fast." His friend asked how, and he said, "Chum the water!"
During our stay on Kauai, our travels around the island brought support and concern from most residents. Not one person we spoke to supported the demonstrators' tactics. Many thanks to those people who expressed the true Hawaiian spirit. We would also like to thank the folks at the Superferry for their support and guidance in a difficult situation. We were not abandoned by them, as we feel our government has done to us.
Finally, to the surfers, canoe clubs and those on kayaks, you might have turned the ferry around that night but not because she feared you, but because Superferry officials feared for your safety. No, the Alakai left under the guiding light of a full moon, not limping but proud, as the right thing was done, the only thing that could have been done given your disregard for your lives and that of your brothers, uncles, friends, sons, sisters, daughters and fathers. To the parents who encouraged their children and young adults into the water (yes, we heard you), shame on you for placing them in unsafe territory. Thank the heavens (and the Superferry captain and crew) that your loved ones were not injured or killed that night.
I believe and hope the Superferry will sail again. My family and many friends will be regular riders. But we will never forget Aug. 26 and 27, two very sad days in Hawaii when a handful of people on Kauai were allowed to terrorize fellow islanders who wanted only to enjoy, not steal from or degrade, their special island.

Editor's note: Gov. Linda Lingle announced Wednesday that extensive security measures have been completed so that the Superferry can travel to Kauai again on Sept. 26. Protesters have said they again plan to block the ship from entering the harbor.

Kauai Environmental Groups Concerned

2007-09-17T12:24:00.000-10:00

By Leland Kim

WAILUA, Kauai (KHNL) -- A day after Governor Linda Lingle gives the thumbs up to the Hawaii Superferry to resume service to Kauai, people there are speaking out. Some are worried protests could escalate if the ship returns before the completion of an environmental review.
The Hawaii Superferry is docked at Honolulu Harbor for two more weeks before it heads back out to Kauai, but some believe this is the calm before the storm.
"I am fearful," said Rich Hoeppner, president of People for the Preservation and board member of 1,000 Friends of Kauai. "I am very afraid of what's going to happen when the ferry comes in here before an environmental assessment is complete."
He said Governor Lingle's announcement Wednesday did little to ease people's concerns.
"From what I've heard, there's going to be more protests," said Hoeppner. "There's going to be more people in the water and we have no control over that."
This despite a stern warning from the attorney general.
"If they violate the law, they will be arrested, they will be prosecuted, and I believe they will be convicted, and they will have a criminal record possibly for the rest of their lives," said Mark Bennett, Hawaii's attorney general.
Kauai environmentalists said there's a simple solution to avoid further confrontation.
"If they complete the environmental impact statement, we will welcome them with open arms," said Hoeppner.
While Hoeppner supports peaceful protests, he does not condone actions by those who confronted Superferry passengers.
"I would like to lend them my apologies," he said. "However, when you have a thousand people demonstrating, there's no way anybody can control a thousand people."
Lawyers for Kauai environmental groups are working on ways to stop the Superferry before services resume in less than two weeks.
The Superferry's fate on Maui is also being debated in a courtroom. A hearing there continued for a fourth day. Three witnesses took the stand, testifying about the potential threat of invasive species. Close to 60 are scheduled to testify. The hearing could be extended through next week.

Inspiring island brimming with 'aloha spirit'

2007-09-17T12:20:00.000-10:00

Hawaii's garden spot offers spectacular scenery, great golf and a special laid-back feel

By Jim Byers Toronto Star

KAUAI, HAWAII–One Sept. 11 took away much of what made this scenic island such a special place for visitors. But another Sept. 11 helped give it back.
There was little to suggest that the morning of Sept. 11, 1992 was anything other than a normal day. There was a big storm on the horizon but experts thought it would pass Hawaii. Instead, Hurricane Iniki slammed headlong into Kauai, wiping out entire hotels at Poipu Beach, a stretch of several golden strands that has been named the best beach in the world by some experts.
Walter Maza moved to Kauai from California in 1993. "It still looked like a bomb had just hit," he said. "The trees were all bare. Houses were in disrepair. It was a mess."
Then came the events of Sept. 11, 2001, after which many Americans decided to spend their travel dollars at home, and for many seeking something a little more exotic than the Gulf of Mexico or Southern California, that meant a trip to Hawaii.
"Initially a lot of people stayed home after the attacks," said Paul Ito, director of golf at the lovely Puakea Golf Course in the main town of Lihue. "Then, when they started to travel they decided to stay in America. We've noticed a pretty good increase in tourism since the last 9-11."
But signs of Iniki are still visible. The hurricane is said to have freed thousands of chickens from coops, and brightly coloured roosters dart over lawns and through thickets of brush. Not everyone likes having them around. "If you love Kauai, take a rooster for lunch," reads one bumper sticker.
Driving past Lihue toward fabled Hanalei and the north shore, where South Pacific was filmed, there's evidence that not even the developers have fully recovered. The Coco Palms resort was one of the first big, romantic spots on Kauai, with nightly torch-lighting ceremonies around a beautiful lagoon and a thatched-roof look to the rooms, some of which featured patio hot tubs in the shape of a giant clam shell. The hurricane ripped it to shreds.
The Poipu Beach Hotel was a low-key, affordable spot in the middle of the mostly dry and dependable Poipu resort area, but workers are just now starting to rebuild it.
Kauai, the Garden Isle, is the piece de resistance of Hawaii. On top of great beaches, incredible golf and fine restaurants, it offers magnificent scenery on an island that you can drive around in (almost) two hours.
In addition to the Hanalei area, with its lovely cliffs dripping with waterfalls and green valleys covered with patches of Hawaiian taro plants, visitors can take in miles of golden beaches. On the northwest side of the island is Waimea Canyon, a gaping slash with miles of reddish-brown soil juxtaposed with stunningly green mountain slopes. It so inspired Mark Twain that he labelled it the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific."
Try to leave Lihue or Poipu by 9 a.m. and head straight up toward the Canyon. The view at the top of the hill is perhaps the most wonderful, inspiring sight in all Hawaii.
It might be raining when you get there – nearby Mt. Wai'ale'ale is the wettest spot in the world – but things can change quickly in these parts. Take a rain jacket and a sweatshirt. On the way home, stop in Waimea for lunch at the Shrimp Station. For $11 – about the price of an appetizer at some upscale island restaurants – you get a plate of close to a dozen plump shrimp with fries or rice. There's sweet chile garlic shrimp, legendary coconut shrimp (just right; not too sweet) and Thai shrimp with lemon grass and spicy salsa. You can kayak on the Hanalei River or on the Wailua River on the south side of the island. You can tee it up at the stunning Kauai Lagoons or up north near Hanalei at the Princeville Course, rated one of the top tracks in the world. You can hike along the Kalalau trail just past Ke'e beach and enjoy some of the most spectacular views in the Pacific. Or you can simply sit back and enjoy the sunset from Poipu. Maza talked about what makes Kauai so special.
"I just got back from a U2 concert on Oahu," he said. "And I've been to Maui. But Kauai. I don't know; it's just better. Just the feel of it. It has that aloha spirit."

Kauai fest revolves around coconuts

2007-09-17T12:01:00.000-10:00

By Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi

An old Hawaiian riddle goes, "Three walls and you reach water." The answer? The coconut, the three "walls" being the husk, shell and meat that surround its water, which the Hawaiians deemed the purest form of liquid because it never touched the ground.
Contrary to popular belief, the coconut is not native to Hawaii; it was one of two dozen "canoe plants" the first Polynesian settlers brought to the islands more than 1,500 years ago for food, shelter, tools, textiles, medicine and religious purposes.
The coconut ranked among the most versatile of those plants. It was, of course, edible. In addition, the early Hawaiians carved drums, canoes and food containers from its trunk. They plaited brooms, baskets, fans and toys from its leaves. The leaflets' midribs made fine brooms, needles, shrimp snares, instruments similar to Jew's harps, and rods to hold kukui nuts, which were burned for light and warmth. The Hawaiians wove coconut husk fibers into strainers and strong cord to build houses, lash together canoe parts, and weave nets and fishing lines. To make fire, they ignited dry fibers with a smoldering hau tree stick, then transferred the flame to wood.
Coconut shells became rattles and cups, and coconut oil was added to tapa dyes to deepen and preserve their hues.
On Oct. 6 and 7, the 11th annual Kauai Coconut Festival will celebrate anything and everything related to the ubiquitous coconut. It's fitting that the event is held at Kapaa Beach Park in the lush eastern region of Kauai, which is known as the Royal Coconut Coast.
In addition to several heiau (temples), this sacred area harbors stones called Pohakuhoohanau, where high-ranking women from throughout the islands gave birth centuries ago.
Westerners who settled here in the 19th century planted sugar cane, rice, pineapple and coconut, the latter in hopes that copra would be a viable crop. The hundreds of coconut trees that line the 7-mile stretch of Kuhio Highway from Wailua to Kapaa are what remain of the old plantations.
Spearheaded by the Kapaa Business Association, the Kauai Coconut Festival has become one of the island's biggest annual events. It's the brainchild of Bob Bartolo, a New Jersey native who in 1995 was a new member of KBA.
At a meeting back then, talk revolved around ways to promote East Kauai. Recalled Bartolo, "I remember saying, 'The coconut is part of our area's history, and we're called the Royal Coconut Coast, so why don't we create a Coconut Festival?' Everyone loved the idea!"
The inaugural festival was held in 1997. "All we had were three craft tents, three food tents, one cultural activities tent, a petting zoo, coconut bowling using Pepsi bottles, and a cooking demonstration and contest," said Bartolo. "Two thousand people came."
This year, 15 food, craft and entertainment tents will be erected, and 5,000 people are expected to enjoy additional offerings such as coconut checkers using the field as a giant board; coconut cream pie-eating contests; coconut painting; children's activities, from modern dance to creating coconut art; and displays and demonstrations showing the wide array of products made from the coconut, including hats, jewelry, postcards and dolls.
Molly Watson, food editor for Sunset magazine, will be judging and helping Bartolo emcee the cooking events.
In 2003 the Food Network featured the festival on its "All-American Festivals" show. Coincidentally, that was the year Bartolo's Vietnamese Coconut Lemongrass Chicken won first place in the cooking contest.
A perennial favorite is the show presented by Vili Fehoko (also known as Vili the Warrior, mascot at University of Hawaii football games); Kapeneta Teo-Tafiti, known as Kap, who hails from Savaii, the largest island in Western Samoa; and other entertainers from Oahu.
"They put on a fantastic show," said Bartolo. "Kap climbs a coconut tree, husks and cracks a coconut open in seconds, and shows the audience how to make fire with fibers from the coconut's husk."
When Bartolo moved to Kauai in 1988, he didn't know much about the coconut. By joining more than 100 other volunteers to create the festival, he's developed a deep appreciation for its role in the everyday life of the Hawaiians and can now rattle off dozens of interesting tidbits about it.
"The festival is an opportunity for people to take a break from their busy lives and enjoy being a tourist on our aina (land)," said Bartolo. "It's amazing how much insight we can gain into Hawaiian traditions through the common coconut!"
Know your coconut» The tree can live for more than a century and grow 100 feet tall.
» It bears fruit around its sixth year, and does so every month thereafter until about its 25th year, when production starts to decline.
» Even after a coconut has floated at sea for months, its seeds can germinate if its protective husk remains intact.
» Hawaii has relatively few coconut palms compared with Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti and other southern neighbors. Some areas in our islands are too cool for the tree to thrive.
» Only two coconut palm varieties, niu hiwa and niu lelo, were established in Hawaii, compared with, for example, dozens in Tahiti.
» In ancient times the coconut tree was revered as the body of the god Ku; thus, only men could plant it. It was forbidden to women as food, although they could use it for other purposes.
» The early Hawaiians didn't consider coconut an important food source, but they valued its water (which only men could drink) on long voyages when fresh water wasn't available.

Kauai Superferry service to resume Sept. 26

2007-09-14T08:33:00.000-10:00

By Chad Blair

The Hawaii Superferry will resume service between Honolulu and Kauai on Sept. 26.
The announcement that the ferry will resume service was made at a news conference at the State Capitol by Gov. Linda Lingle. She said the decision was made by a "unified command" representing state, federal and local government and law enforcement officials.
"We respect everyone's right to voice their opinion, but we will not allow a small group of protestors to act out in a lawless manner to obstruct the operations of a legitimate business, intimidate the people who wish to use its services or put people's lives at risk," Lingle said.
Attorney General Mark Bennett said that any protester who violates a Coast Guard security zone at Nawiliwili Harbor, endangers public safety, or involves children when breaking the law will be arrested and prosecuted.
At the request of state officials, the Superferry is expected to shift its visit to Nawiliwili to the daytime rather than its scheduled evening arrival and departure.
The Hawaii Superferry was turned away from Nawiliwili Harbor in late August when protests on land and in the water prohibited it from docking.
Environmental and other activist groups say the Superferry will increase Neighbor Island traffic, transport invasive species and threaten whales.
A Maui judge this week is holding hearings to decide whether to issue an injunction banning the ferry service from Maui until an environmental assessment is completed. The assessment was ordered by the Hawaii Supreme Court and the Maui service is presently subject to a temporary restraining order.
Meanwhile, a Kauai judge has scheduled a hearing on Sept. 17 to decide whether Superferry service should be permanently halted there as well.
Lingle again defended her administration's decision to not require an environmental assessment for the Superferry. She urged Maui Circuit Court Judge Joseph Cardoza to weigh the protesters' concerns with the harm done to the Superferry, which she says will go out of business if it is not allowed to resume service to Maui while the study is conducted.
Lingle will travel to Kauai later this month to hold a public meeting on the Superferry controversy. She said the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural resources is investigating reports that Superferry passengers traveling from Oahu to Maui loaded trucks with rocks from Maui streams and planned to haul them back to Oahu, presumably to sell.

Superferry security zone challenged on Kauai - The Honolulu Advertiser

2007-09-12T12:48:00.000-10:00

By Derrick DePledge

A Big Island attorney yesterday asked the Coast Guard to repeal its emergency rule creating a federal security zone at Nawiliwili Harbor on Kaua'i for the Hawaii Superferry, arguing it could result in a major confrontation between protesters and the Coast Guard.
Lanny Sinkin, a Hilo attorney, filed a petition with the Coast Guard on behalf of more than 130 people challenging the federal security zone. Sinkin also sent a letter to Coast Guard Commandant Adm. Thad Allen in Washington, D.C., asking him to review the petition.
The Coast Guard is accepting public comments on the security zone until Sept. 26 and could change its rule based on the comments. Sinkin also cited a provision of the federal government's administrative procedure that gives people the right to petition agencies for the issuance, amendment or repeal of rules.
"They created a situation where people could get hurt or even killed," said Sinkin, an attorney who has previously challenged the Navy's use of low-frequency sonar because of a concern it might harm whales.
The Coast Guard was faulted by some after officers did not clear the harbor of protesters when the Superferry catamaran made its debut voyage to Kaua'i last month. The ferry's first arrival was delayed by protesters and a second was aborted after protesters blocked the Alakai from the harbor.
Last week, the Coast Guard announced a federal security zone at the harbor and a designated protest area off Kalapaki Beach and warned of arrests and fines for protesters who disobey. A separate federal security zone extends 100 yards around the Alakai.
"The safety of the public is the No. 1 issue," Coast Guard Petty Officer Alan Haraf said in explaining the imposing of a security zone.
The rule creating the security zone took effect Sept. 1 and runs through October. The Coast Guard did not publish advance notice, but said it found that good cause existed to make the rule effective sooner than 30 days after its publication in the Federal Register, as is usually required.
"Delay in implementing this rule would expose protesters, in the water and ashore, and ferry passengers and crew to undue hazards due to protesters' tactics of entering the water from land and waterfront facilities adjacent to the harbor and using themselves as human barriers to the Hawaii Superferry's movement into Nawiliwili Harbor," the Coast Guard found.
A Kaua'i judge on Friday turned down a request by environmentalists for a temporary restraining order to keep the Alakai from the harbor until the state completes an environmental assessment. The judge set a Sept. 17 hearing date on an injunction against the Superferry operation, but the ferry is now free to go to Kaua'i.
Lori Abe, a Superferry spokeswoman, said yesterday that the company has no plans to resume ferry service to Kaua'i this week.
Protesters have predicted new demonstrations on Kaua'i if the ferry resumes operation.
Sinkin said his petition was an attempt to exhaust his administrative options before considering whether to fight the Coast Guard in federal court.
Along with Sinkin's petition, several others have also sent comments to the Coast Guard opposing the security zone.
Paul Campbell, chair of the Moku Loa Group of the Sierra Club's Hawai'i chapter, said he supports the right of people to protest and called the security zone "unacceptably large."
"The Coast Guard should place the safety and rights of the people over corporate interests," Campbell wrote.
Rana Jackson, of Lihu'e, said the security zone "provides another example of keeping residents 'safe' by barring us from voicing our opinions and allowing the Superferry operation to continue instead of by mandating the Superferry follow an existent law."
State Senate Minority Leader Fred Hemmings, R-25th (Kailua, Waimanalo, Hawai'i Kai), said he thought the petition was "ludicrous." He said it is the Coast Guard's responsibility to ensure public safety and safe passage for the ferry.
"This is another example of Hawai'i succumbing to the most vociferous — and, in this case, lawbreaking — protest group," Hemmings said.

Kauai Protestors Look for Support

2007-09-12T09:46:00.000-10:00

By Tim Sakahara

Protestors brought their songs, signs and support from Kauai to Oahu for a protest outside the State Capitol to talk about all the things they are worried about losing.
"Everything, our flowers from the mountains, our maile, our mukihana, our limu from the ocean, our leaves from the river, there are so many resources there that people can come over and take," said Kalehua Ham Young.
The protestors called the Superferry a monster and said they are not ready to accept the people that will use it.
"Local people won't be able to leave their surf boards in the back of their pickups like they do now, people will have to put locks on their doors, it's going to be a total cultural change from the way we live," said Rich Hoeppner, president of the People for the Preservation for Kauai, one of the groups suing the Superferry.
Not everyone who stopped to listen agreed with the protestors. Andrew Tomoso even shouted out during one of the speeches.
"Allow us to continue to travel in whatever means necessary," said Tomoso. "Allow myself to travel my islands, all these islands are everyone's. We're all citizens of this state, we should be able to explore the islands on our own."
Tomoso lives in Honolulu, but is from Maui and would like another option to go home besides a plane. He questioned why protestors are mad with the Superferry, but not with cruise ships.
"Kauai just had a new pier put in to accommodate two cruise ships at the same time, that's thousands per cruise ship, where's the balance on that part alone?"
"Most of us we feel the cruise ships don't bring in the cars and the heavy nets and all that kind of stuff. The people just come and leave that's the difference," said Ham Young.
They agreed that the Superferry has brought out so many different opinions. While the protestors started out looking for support, it ended with them supporting each other, vowing not to give up their fight.
Last week a Kauai judge ruled in favor of the Superferry denying a temporary restraining order which means the ship can continue sailing to that island, but it has not yet set a date to resume service.
Meanwhile, a new hearing begins on September 17 to decide if the Superferry will be allowed to continue service to Kauai before an environmental assessment is complete. A similar hearing is going on now on Maui.

Adventure Travel Gone Wrong on Kauai

2007-09-12T09:41:00.000-10:00

By Alex Salkever

Adventure travelers already know that Kauai is Hawaii's best bet for waterfalls, and that it's blessed with copious rainfall (making Mount Waialeale one of the wettest places on Earth). But most of those waterfalls are on private property. And while waterfalls may be pretty to look at, they aren't necessarily as safe as plunge pools.
With guidebooks printing detailed maps for bushwhacking through private property to get to these waterfalls, Kauai's cataracts have gotten crowded and, according to the rescue workers in Kauai County, dangerous. The worst offender is probably Puhi Falls, a mild-looking waterfall just 20 feet high--that still manages to send one jumper a day to the local hospital.
The guidebooks have likely resulted in two off-the-beaten-path deaths already, albeit not at Puhi, after falling off a trail to some hidden cascades. County officials are incensed, as are private landowners, but that's not yet stopping the popularity of Kauai's plentiful falls.

Kauai judge declines to block Superferry

2007-09-10T10:21:00.000-10:00

A Kauai judge has declined to issue a temporary restraining order against the Hawaii Superferry.
Circuit Court Judge Randal Valenciano's decision on Friday means the Superferry could resume service to Kauai, but Superferry officials said they haven't decided when they will sail.
Valenciano denied the request by 1000 Friends of Kauai, an environmental group, and Rich Hoeppner, a Kauai resident, to block the ferry from the island. But he set a hearing for Sept. 17 to consider a request for a permanent restraining order against the Superferry until the state completes its environmental assessment of harbors to be used by the ship.
Nawiliwili Harbor was the scene of protests last week that led to the decision by Superferry officials to stop Kauai service until the U.S. Coast Guard could secure the harbor. The prospect of more protests still hangs over the Superferry and it's not clear that the Coast Guard and local police have come up with a way of safely keeping the protesters from blocking the ferry.
The Superferry issued this statement on Friday afternoon: "We are pleased with the decision by Judge Valenciano. Hawaii Superferry is grateful for the support and excitement shown by the residents of Hawaii. We look forward to resuming service and providing the people of Hawai'i with a safe and reliable inter-island ferry system. A date for the resumption of service to and from Kaua'i has not yet been set."
Carl Berg of 1000 Friends of Kauai told The Honolulu Advertiser: "I'm very disappointed that Judge Valenciano decided not to issue the TRO and I have great fears that Mr. (John) Garibaldi will go forth and illegally bring Hawaii Superferry to Kauai."
Garabaldi is CEO of the Hawaii Superferry.

Kauai condominium prices soar

2007-09-07T08:22:00.001-10:00

The median price of a condominium on Kauai rose more than 30 percent last month despite a more than 30 percent drop in the number of sales, while prices and sales of single-family homes both posted declines.
The median price of a Kauai condo in August was $589,000, a 30.3 percent increase over the same month last year, when the median price was $452,000, according to figures released by Hawaii Information Service Wednesday.
Condo prices for the first eight months of the year are up as well. The median condo price through the end of August was $557,500, a 43.3 percent boost over the same period last year, when the median price was $389,000.
The price increases are based on considerably fewer sales. The 23 units sold in August were 30.3 percent fewer than the 33 units sold in August 2006. There were just 220 sales during the first eight months of the year, a 58.3 percent drop from the same period in 2006, when 528 units sold.
The median price of a single-family home on Kauai last month was $599,000, a 23 percent drop from August 2006, when the price was $780,000. However, for the first eight months of the year, the median price was down by just under 4 percent, to $655,000 from $680,000.
The 20 single-family homes sold in August were 44.4 percent fewer than the same month last year when 36 homes sold. Sales were down just 5.4 percent for the first eight months of the year, with 298 homes sold through August of this year, compared to 315 homes sold during the same period last year.

Kauai judge delays decision on Superferry TRO

2007-09-07T08:18:00.000-10:00

A Kauai judge will rule tomorrow on a request to keep the Hawaii Superferry away from the Garden Island for at least 10 days.
Lihue Circuit Judge Randal Valenciano gave all parties involved until 11 a.m. tomorrow to file written arguments and indicated he would rule on the matter tomorrow afternoon.
Valenciano asked the environmental group 1000 Friends of Kauai why it didn’t file its request within 120 days of the state’s decision that an environmental assessment was not necessary. The state made that determination in February 2005.
“Right now the court is still struggling with the 120-day period,” Valenciano said.
“This is a big issue, this could control the case,” he said.
Valenciano pointed out that a similar request filed in Maui Circuit Court by the Sierra Club and others was done within the 120-day period.
The group 1000 Friends of Kauai asked Valenciano to block the Superferry from docking at Nawiliwili for at least 10 days as the court considers its motion for a preliminary injunction that would indefinitely halt the ship’s Kauai service. The organization wants the Kauai service suspended until the state Department of Transportation has completed an environmental assessment, which was ordered by the Hawaii Supreme Court on Aug. 23.
The environmental assessment, according to state officials, could take up to eight months.
On Monday, Maui Circuit Judge Joseph Cardoza is scheduled to hear a separate motion for a preliminary injunction to keep the Superferry from running from Oahu to Kahului until an environmental assessment on harbor improvements is completed. Cardoza has already issued a temporary restraining order halting Maui service until the preliminary injunction motion is decided.
After the state Supreme Court’s ruling, the Hawaii Superferry rushed into service on Aug. 26. But Cardoza shut down Maui service two days later by granting a TRO for that island. Protesters at Nawiliwili Harbor on Kauai, meanwhile, turned back the service on its second day, resulting in the temporary suspension because of security and safety concerns.
The 1000 Friends motion for a TRO alleged that “immediate injury, loss, or damage will result” if the Superferry returns to the Garden Isle. The Superferry’s impact on traffic, marine life, crime, the environment and the culture has never been studied or subject to public scrutiny, the group’s motions also stated.
Without that study, all operating agreements with the Superferry should be voided and any further Superferry trips should be considered a nuisance, the 1000 Friends say.
Superferry attorneys say there is no evidence that the vessel will harm the environment, while state attorneys say an assessment can be done while the ferry operates.
Meanwhile, Hawaii Superferry will make a special round-trip voyage between Oahu and Maui this weekend so passengers can reclaim vehicles stranded after the ferry had to suspend service.
A Circuit Court judge ordered the company to stop service while he decides whether the company may operate the ferry at the same time it conducts an environmental assessment.
The move stranded many people and their cars on Oahu and Maui.
But the judge said he would allow the company to make one round-trip voyage so passengers could get their cars back home.
The ferry will leave Honolulu at 11 a.m. Saturday and arrive at Kahului three hours later. It will leave Maui at 3 p.m.

Where to lunch like a local

2007-09-07T08:11:00.000-10:00

When it comes to dining out in Hawaii, a key word to know is 'ono — Hawaiian for delicious. It's easily confused with ono, an 'ono kind of mackerel known as wahoo in Florida and the Caribbean. But if you're on a budget, you're more likely to say "Oh no!" when you open a menu at a resort restaurant. To avoid sticker shock — and to savor flavors you won't find anywhere else — be sure to seek out the places where the locals eat.
These include saimin (noodle soup) stands, shrimp and fish taco trucks, diners serving plate lunches (a hearty entree with two scoops of rice and/or macaroni salad), okazuya (Japanese-Hawaiian delis) in simple storefronts, and convenience stores that also sell bento boxes, Spam musubi (a large sushi roll with fried Spam) and local sweet treats like coconut mochi (steamed, pounded rice) and peach manju (like a mini turnover).
Especially outside of Honolulu, you'll probably need a car to find these places — and a patient attitude toward service. But the rewards can be great, as even the James Beard Foundation agrees. In 2006, it gave one of its prestigious culinary awards to Hamura's Saimin Stand, a hole-in-the-wall, counters-and-stools diner in Lihue on Kauai. In addition to several varieties of piping-hot saimin, Hamura's is also famed for its liliko'i chiffon pie — a passion fruit version of lemon meringue.
The popularity of Oahu's graffiti-covered Giovanni's Shrimp Truck off the highway in Kahuku has begotten a host of nearby trucks with similar offerings of garlicky, sauteed shrimp and rice. In some cases, the shrimp comes from the freshwater farms in Kahuku, while others use frozen shrimp, but it's all pretty tasty. Just bring a few extra dollars to stop at a North Shore fruit stand for an iced coconut or freshly sliced pineapple — good for combatting garlic breath.
Kauai has its own version of Giovanni's Shrimp Truck, with garlic and Brazilian-style shrimp for sale, off Lawai Road in Poipu. On my last visit, there were only four chairs and one table, but we could have easily taken our shrimp over to a picnic table at Poipu Beach Park or Spouting Horn. Kauai is also home to our favorite roadside burger joint: Duane's Ono Char-Burgers in Anahola. As the sign notes, these are not burgers made of ono, but they are indeed 'ono — and the wild jungle chickens and feral cats that lurk in the shrubs will be happy to take the leftovers (if any) off your hands. For dessert, stop by the convenience store in the same shopping strip to see if there's any mochi on the counter.
Speaking of sweets, bakeries that sell malasadas — Portuguese-style hole-less doughnuts — can be found all over the islands, but the Big Island, appropriately, has one of the biggest establishments: Tex Drive-In in Honokaa, which sells more than 60,000 of the pastries every month, and also has a simple restaurant serving local-style grinds. It's a big enough tourist draw that it has its own gift shop, but it's also one of the few establishments in the area (the Hamakua coastline east of Waimea and north of Hilo) that stays open relatively late, so the patrons include many residents.
Tex Drive-In is a big enough business that the authors of "The Puka Guide: 100 Hawaiian-Style Hole-in-the-Wall Restaurants" (Watermark, $9.95) didn't include it in their recently updated version, but the book is an invaluable source of other mom-and-pop eateries in the islands, especially ones that offer omiyage, or food packaged as gifts or souvenirs. The same publisher also has several island-specific titles of good use for budget gourmands: "Lunch Break Honolulu: 65 Great Places to Beat the Clock" ($9.95), "50 Thrifty Maui Restaurants" ($8.95) and "50 Thrifty Big Island Restaurants" ($6.95). You can order them online at bookshawaii.net.
By eating like the locals, you won't enjoy formal service, palm-frond decor or a lot of heart-healthy cuisine, but your finances will let you say "Oh yes" when you splurge on the macadamia-crusted ono at a resort restaurant.